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Sauerkraut Dreams at Beiling Park

Updated: Mar 27, 2021

Chef Adam went wandering around the tomb of the second emperor of the Qing Dynasty in Shenyang and found more than he had hoped for.................

This is the UNESCO heritage site located in the north part of the city of Shenyang, China




Beiling Park, or "North Park" in mandarin, lies exactly where it states. In the northern part of the ancient city of Shenyang is where the second (officially fist) emperor lies with his wife. He is the second emperor only because he is the son of the founder pre-dating the establishment of the Qing Dynasty in 1622. Nurhachi was the father. Qianlong was the son. Qianlong lies with his wife, Xiaoduwen, in Beiling Park.



It was built as a tomb for the first emperor (son of Nurachi) Huang Taji and his empress. Construction of the tomb was between 1643-1651






















It contains a huge lake and beautiful garden. The "feng shui" here is very strong.



One lovely fall day, I entered the tomb grounds and walked just behind the entrance wall. There I saw some of the local groundskeepers prepping for the winter months. No, they were not clipping trees or trimming grass but they were starting a tradition long practiced in the region for health, well being, and survival.


The process from afar.


As i got closer, I saw that the ground staff were drying cabbage and leeks along with making traditional sour cabbage.


It was "Suancai" or Sauerkraut time in Shenyang. How amazing was it to see for the first time as I only heard about it from all of my hotel staff. I never was able to witness it first hand.

The groundskeepers explained to me that this is how they salted and prepared the cabbage for fermentation.

After weighted down and being salted, the cabbage shrinks dramatically.

Large, oversized radishes and other vegetables are also salted and weighed down. The white foam means that the fermentation is underway.

Some dishes with sauerkraut are braised dishes with pork and sweet potato glass noodles from the north.

Usually, it is served braised with star anise, cinnamon, pork belly and usually comes boiling to the table so it doesn't get cold as one enjoys it.


As the years passed, the Qing Dynasty conquered Beijing and established the final dynasty of China's history. The first, second, and third emperor always kept Shenyang close to their hearts. When other emperors ascended to the throne, then too was Shenyang slowly forgotten. The most recent tombs of Qing were placed closer to Beijing for visitation connivence and remembrance. It reminds me of how families resettle and pasts are forgotten.


Although Shenyang is a great city, it too was forgotten about for many years. The traditions live on however in all things "Sauerkraut". It will hopefully be a tradition that never dies.

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